Batik Tulis Basurek From Bengkulu

It is said that Basurek batik cloth from Bengkulu is identical to the style of Arabic writing or it can be called Arabic calligraphy batik. Basurek or besurek itself literally also means writing or writing. Besurek cloth is believed to be the result of the physical culture of the Bengkulu people, in its motifs the influence of elements of Islamic culture can be seen, namely the motifs with Arabic calligraphy nuances.

Different regions, different batik patterns. So it's not complete if we stop by on a trip to Bengkulu without bringing a souvenir from this region's typical batik cloth, called basurek cloth. At first, Batik Basurek was identical to the style of Arabic writing or maybe Arabic calligraphy. Basurek or besurek itself literally also means writing or writing.

But now, some craftsmen have combined it with the Raflesia Arnoldy flower motif, another Bengkulu specialty. But along with its development, the basurek fabric that is now widely sold is production with stamping technology (printing). Where can you get it. You can get Basurek cloth at shops in the Anggut and Drop areas. In this area, many shops sell Basurek cloth and other Bengkulu traditional souvenirs and crafts.

For hand-drawn or hand-painted batik cloth, at least you have to order specifically, among others, to Asniarti craftsmen. Because, not every shop sells original or hand-painted basurek fabrics. Efforts to mass production with stamping technology were carried out in order to better socialize the Basurek cloth.

The reason is that Basurek stamped cloth is cheaper than writing cloth. In addition, through the development of motifs, even though they break old traditions, it is hoped that the basurek cloth will continue to be popular and be used not only for traditional purposes.

Moreover, the bare Arabic letter motifs printed on the Basurek cloth actually have no special meaning and are even difficult to read. Bare Arabic letters are used only to fulfill the perspective of art and beauty. So maybe it's just the form of scribbles that are deliberately similar to Arabic letters. Although in some types of cloth, especially for traditional ceremonies, it is written in Arabic letters that can be read. However, most of it is just a decoration similar to Arabic letters.

However, these motifs are very sacred, especially in the use of traditional bridal ceremonial cloths and to cover corpses. This type of cloth is usually in the form of a veil for the bride and groom which can also be used for pilgrimage ceremonies to the tombs of the ancestors. This ceremony is very sacred so the use of this type of cloth should not be arbitrary. There are also cloths for the bridal chamber and the celebration of the birth of a baby. In addition, a small size basurek cloth is also used as a men's headband in Bengkulu traditional clothes called detar.

Basurek Hand-drawn Batik

The work of written basurek cloth actually uses simple equipment. Craftsmen usually use a small table, a pot for the night (batik candle), a small stove, and a canting. Before making batik, a basurek pattern is drawn on cotton or silk. After that batik work begins. Each piece of basurek cloth measuring 2.25 meters by 1 meter is done in three or four days. The length of time required also depends on the complexity of the batik design pattern.

The price of besurek cloth itself varies, depending on the quality of the workmanship, the complexity of the pattern, and the quality of the material. Basurek cloth made of silk costs between Rp. 200,000 to Rp. 500,000 per sheet. The more complicated, the more expensive it is. While basurek cloth made of cotton is quite cheap, between Rp. 50,000 to Rp. 100,000 per sheet. However, there is also a 75-year-old basurek cloth that is valued at up to IDR 5 million.

Until now, there are only a few batik artisans in Bengkulu who survive, although sales are highly dependent on orders and tourists who come to Bengkulu. Like the sale of other products, the marketing of basurek cloth also experienced ups and downs. For this reason, both craftsmen, entrepreneurs, and local governments continue to develop basurek cloth so that the community continues to use it. Moreover, basurek cloth is one of the cultural heritages which also supports the economy of the people in Bengkulu.

The Meaning of the Bassurek Motif

Besurek cloth is believed to be the result of the physical culture of the Bengkulu people, in its motifs the influence of elements of Islamic culture can be seen, namely the motifs with Arabic calligraphy nuances. In subsequent developments these motifs were modified by adding other Bengkulu icons, such as; Rafflesia flowers, Kibut flowers, and others. The original or basic motif of the besurek cloth consists of seven motifs, namely:

• First, Arabic calligraphy motifs, meaning that the motifs on the besurek cloth are in the form of Arabic writing.
• Second, the moon motif combined with Arabic calligraphy depicts the creation of God Almighty.
• Third, Arabic calligraphy and jasmine flowers, this motif not only shows the influence of Islam (Arabic calligraphy) but also describes the life of flora. Jasmine flower is one type of plant that is widely available and used in Bengkulu for a long time.
• Fourth, the Kuau bird and Arabic calligraphy on the besurek cloth depict the life of the fauna. The Kuau bird is the creation of craftsmen from a long time ago.
• Fifth, the tree of life, the kuau bird, and Arabic calligraphy, the besurek cloth with this motif can be said to be more developed than the one previously mentioned, because it consists of three types of motifs or images. This cloth motif depicts the life of flora, fauna, and the influence of Islam.
• Sixth, Arabic calligraphy, clove flower, and cempaka flower. This motif describes the life of flora and fauna. Clove flowers and cempaka flowers are types of plants that are widely available in Bengkulu.
• Seventh, Arabic calligraphy, niches of nails, and birds of prey. This motif describes the life of flora and fauna. Nail niche is a type of plant that is often found in Bengkulu in ancient times. Therefore, even this plant inspired the besurek cloth craftsmen to paint it on the cloth.

The seven basic motifs of Besurek cloth, which were created by the ancestors of the Bengkulu people, are still being preserved. The reason is, the seven motifs are the essence of the uniqueness of Bengkulu besurek cloth that is not found in other areas. While the difference in terms of function and use is the color.

Creation and Innovation

Maintaining Besurek fabrics with original motifs is important, but creating new motifs is equally important. The creation of new motifs with more diverse colors is needed to further popularize besurek fabrics. This has generally been done by most of the basurek fabric craftsmen.

In addition to more varied colors and motifs, the use of basurek cloth is now wider, not limited to only traditional events or ceremonies. Uses outside of this event include: for clothing, formal attire, uniforms, fans, tablecloths, and so on. This effort is made because the community is now more familiar with the Basurek cloth. And the wealth of Bengkulu's intangible heritage can be sustainable.

Cultural Heritage Full of Meaning and Aesthetics

Batik Besurek is not just a cloth, but a reflection of the history, traditions, and identity of the Bengkulu people.

Batik, one of Indonesia's cultural heritages recognized worldwide, has an extraordinary wealth of motifs and coloring techniques. Now Batik is not only dominated by the Javanese, but can be found throughout the archipelago.

In Aceh, for example, the westernmost province of Indonesia, there are also typical batik patterns. Not only that, Acehnese batik also has its own history. In Papua, Papuan batik is now known, which is dominated by animal motifs found in that area.

The people in Sumatra also have their own batik. One of them is Bengkulu. The province that borders West Sumatra and Lampung has a batik known as Batik Besurek.

Batik Besurek from Bengkulu is known as one of the unique works of art. With unique motifs rooted in local culture and external influences, Batik Besurek is not just a cloth, but a reflection of the history, traditions, and identity of the Bengkulu people.

When viewed from its history, Batik Besurek is closely related to the development of Bengkulu culture since the kingdom era. In the 17th century, the combination of Arab traders and Indian workers created a unique cultural heritage.

The term "Besurek" comes from the Bengkulu language which means "written" or "written", reflecting the characteristics of this batik which displays Arabic-Malay letter motifs in a calligraphy style.

The existence of Batik Besurek is also associated with Prince Sentot Alibasyah, a figure who migrated to Bengkulu with his family and followers. The descendants of Prince Sentot became craftsmen and users of this unique cloth. They are the ones who make Batik Besurek an inseparable part of local history.

Uniqueness of Motifs and Manufacturing Process

Batik Besurek has a uniqueness that is difficult to find in other types of batik. The main motif is Arabic-Malay letters written in a decorative calligraphy style.

In addition, geometric patterns and local cultural symbols complement the beauty of this cloth. These motifs are not only aesthetically valuable, but also contain deep philosophical and religious messages.

The process of making Batik Besurek requires high skill and precision. The initial stage begins with drawing motifs on the cloth using wax to create areas that are not exposed to dye.

The coloring is done using natural materials, such as leaves, roots, and local fruits. After the coloring is complete, the wax is washed off to reveal the motifs that have been drawn. This process can take several days to weeks, depending on the complexity of the motif and the number of colors used.

Batik Besurek has deep social and cultural values. In the past, this cloth was used in various traditional ceremonies, such as weddings, circumcisions, and religious ceremonies. The use of Batik Besurek in this context shows its role as a symbol of identity and honor for the Bengkulu people.

The calligraphy motifs on Batik Besurek are often decorative and contain spiritual messages that reflect the acculturation of local culture with Islamic influences. This makes Batik Besurek not only a beautiful cloth, but also a medium of communication about cultural values.

Challenges and Efforts for Preservation

In the modern era, the popularity of Batik Besurek faces major challenges. Mass textile products and machine-printed batik threaten the existence of traditional hand-drawn batik.

Batik Besurek artisans who maintain traditional techniques are now increasingly rare. However, preservation efforts continue to be carried out by various communities and local governments to keep this heritage alive.

Groups of artisans are trying to promote Batik Besurek as part of Bengkulu's cultural identity. The use of Batik Besurek as modern clothing and souvenirs has also expanded its appeal in local and international markets.

What is clear is that Batik Besurek Bengkulu is real evidence of Indonesia's cultural richness that combines art, tradition, and philosophical values. The unique patterns and complicated manufacturing process make Batik Besurek more than just cloth. Besurek is also a heritage that must be preserved.

In the midst of modernization, Batik Besurek remains a symbol of the identity of the Bengkulu people as well as an inspiration for the next generation to continue to love and preserve the nation's cultural heritage.

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