Batik From Soekarno to Jokowi is World Famous

 President Soeharto has the greatest contribution to the history of batik's popularity in the eyes of the world. Because of his services so far, many business people in this sector call this second president a "Batik Hero".

Of course, it is not an exaggeration for Indonesia to claim that batik is a noble culture that represents Indonesia's identity in the eyes of the world. In a piece of batik cloth, not only is the local cultural identity and history of certain regions, for example Yogyakarta and Solo, but also the image and national identity of Indonesia are embedded.

Yes, batik is one of Indonesia's national branding. Moreover, since October 2, 2009 in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, UNESCO has designated batik as the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Initially, batik was identified as a traditional Nusantara cloth. Batik is an original craft that is widely found in various regions of Indonesia, such as Pekalongan, Solo, Yogyakarta, Madura, Tasikmalaya, and Cirebon. Even in the areas of Sumatra and Kalimantan there are also batik craftsmen. At least 23 provinces in Indonesia have batik with their own local distinctive patterns.

Talking about the popularity of batik in the world is the result of a long historical process. Batik began to be known to the world since the publication of The History of Java by Thomas Stamford Raffles in 1817. However, a relatively complete treatise on batik could only be read by the world community since De Batik-kunst In Nederlandsch-indie En Haar Geschiedenis by two Dutch anthropologists, GP Rouffaer and HH Juynboll, was published in 1899.

Referring to Denys Lombard, batik crafts as an industrial prototype have begun to be recorded as appearing in Java since the second half of the 19th century. However, along with the increasing popularity of batik in the eyes of the world, it is now apparent that this traditional art has developed into a modern industry. The reach of its users is no longer limited to the domestic market but also to foreign countries.

This can at least be seen from the role of Indonesian designers in the international fashion scene. Take the names Oscar Lawalata, Denny Wirawan, Edward Hutabarat, Iwan Tirta, or Ghea Panggabean, for example, they are widely known as top designers at the world level who often use batik as the main material in their designs.

Even for top world designers, it is not strange now if they are seen creating with batik. Take Dries van Noten or Nicole Miller, for example. Dries van Noten in the 2010 Spring Collection at Paris Fashion Week was recorded using batik motifs. While Nicole Miller in the 2009 Resort Collection, one of her designs was seen using mega mendung batik motifs.

The popularity of batik seems increasingly unstoppable, after world celebrities were caught on camera wearing batik clothes. Take names like Paris Hilton, Julia Roberts, Rachel Bilson, Judas Priest vocalist Rob Halford, and so on. Not to mention Microsoft founder Bill Gates has also attended a prestigious forum wearing a batik shirt.

The implication is not only that batik is increasingly loved by the domestic market. But, from year to year now the number of batik exports also tends to increase. The government recorded the export value of batik and batik products throughout 2017 reaching USD58.46 million. Although slightly reduced because the global economic situation tends to slow down, throughout 2018 the export value of this commodity was still recorded at USD52.4 million. Talking about the main destination countries for batik, they are Japan, the United States, and Europe.

Batik From Soekarno to Jokowi

Talking about the process of making batik global is clearly the result of collaboration between the government and related stakeholders to promote batik intensively and continuously. Let's look at the notes regarding the government's efforts to popularize batik in the eyes of the world.

As will be seen later, initially the popularity of batik was deliberately sown solely with the aim of constructing a national identity. However, in line with the development of dynamics, it is clear that the government also intends to boost the popularity of batik in the eyes of the world. In addition to seeing the high appreciation of the world community, the potential for this commodity is not difficult to become Indonesia's leading product.

Of course, President Soekarno deserves to be mentioned, even though the photos of this first president are relatively never seen wearing batik. This figure who was very passionate about building the idealism of unity for his nation, was recorded as having initiated the creation of a batik motif that carried the message of Indonesian unity.

Aspiring to encapsulate the message of national unity in a piece of batik cloth, that was Bung Karno's idea. This idea was conveyed by Bung Karno when he met a batik artist from Solo. Go Tik Swan, also known as Kanjeng Pangeran Arya (KPA) Hardjonagoro, was asked to realize the idea.

Thus was born the design "Batik Indonesia." Thus Go Tik Swan named the batik design he created, according to Soekarno's message. Interestingly, the characteristic of Indonesian Batik can be said to not be a batik design with Solo, Yogya, Pekalongan, Cirebon, Lasem, and other styles, but a combination of batik patterns and styles from all over Indonesia.

Indonesian Batik is not only a combination of patterns but also a combination of many colors. This batik is often said to be multi-colored, as a combination of Solo batik colors dominated by black and brown with coastal batik dominated by bright colors.

According to the indonesiabatik.id page, Go Tik Swan has created at least 200 motifs. Rengga Puspita, Sawunggaling, or Kembang Bangah Kuntul Nglayang, for example, are some of the names of batik motifs created by Go Tik Swan. In addition to being popular among batik collectors, Batik Indonesia by Go Tik Swan has also been recorded in history as having enriched the treasury of batik motifs in Indonesia.

President Soeharto certainly had the biggest contribution to the history of batik's popularity. Not a few business people in this sector even called the second president a "Batik Hero." Unfortunately, no complete writing has ever been written by anyone regarding this role. Most writings about the history of his role in advancing the world of batik are still limited to fragments of events.

It is said that one of the triggers for Soeharto's enthusiasm to encourage the popularity of batik was the policy of the Governor of DKI Jakarta Ali Sadikin. Influenced by the batik calligraphy artist from Yogyakarta, Amri Yahya, Ali Sadikin on July 14, 1972, determined batik as the official clothing for men in the DKI Jakarta area.

As if to confirm Bung Karno's ideals, since Bang Ali's policy, batik has not only been a valuable commodity object, but has also practically officially become a cultural symbol in the search for national identity. Pak Harto, as he is usually called, seemed to be inspired by the policy of DKI Governor Ali Sadikin. Then, moving further, he encouraged the process of internalizing national identity through the symbol of batik.

Despite the strong tendency of "uniform politics," what is famously known as the "Korpri Uniform" is an implementation of Soeharto's idea to place batik as a symbol of national identity. Aming Prayitno, a painter, is the designer of the Korpri logo. This logo was then batik-ed using a "stamp" or printing, and then worn as mandatory clothing for civil servants in their daily duties.

On many occasions welcoming state guests, President Soeharto almost always wore a batik shirt. Speaking of Indonesian souvenirs, batik is often chosen as a gift for state guests. So far, there have been several important moments to note.

First, in 1986, US President Ronald Reagan made an unofficial four-day visit to Bali to attend the ASEAN Summit. At that time, the 40th US President and his wife attended the dinner wearing batik. President Reagan wore a batik shirt with a Sidoluhur motif, while the first lady wore a bright red batik shirt. Iwan Tirta was the batik designer for the number one person in the US.

Second, the giving of batik souvenirs to Nelson Mandela in 1990. This was the moment Mandela first introduced himself to batik. At that time, he was still serving as deputy chairman of the African National Congress. In 1997, Mandela wore the batik again when he returned to Indonesia as President of South Africa.

Since then, the famous apartheid fighter can be said to have truly fallen in love with batik. At state events in various forums, both national and international, including at the UN forum, Mandela was always seen wearing a batik shirt.

The South African people themselves call Mandela's batik shirts, "Madiba shirts." Madiba is Mandela's clan name. Yusuf Surtee, a clothing supplier for Mandela for decades, said that the Madiba design was Mandela's request based on a shirt model that President Suharto had given him.

Third, the peak of all that happened in 1994. When Indonesia became the chairman and host of the APEC Summit for the first time. On that occasion, batik became the dress code. Iwan Tirta was again chosen as the designer to create 18 batik motifs for the 18 heads of state participating in APEC, including Indonesia, according to the cultural colors of each country with a combination of touches of Javanese ethnic batik patterns.

President Soeharto's strategy was widely imitated by subsequent presidents. The phase of proposing batik to be included in the UNESCO World Heritage list and the success of batik in obtaining the title of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, occurred during the era of President SBY. This struggle was certainly not easy, considering that Malaysia at that time was claiming batik as originating from their culture. Along with this success, President SBY also determined every October 2 as National Batik Day.

Not only that. Throughout the decade of SBY's government, many forums were also held at the regional and multilateral levels, which placed Indonesia as the host. For example, the 19th ASEAN Summit and the East Asia Summit in 2011, Indonesia was the host. This had consequences for the use of batik cloth as a dress code.

President Joko Widodo immediately followed in the footsteps of the previous president. President Jokowi wore a batik shirt with a parang pattern at the APEC Summit in Beijing, China, in 2014. No exception at the IMF-World Bank Annual Meeting forum in Bali in October 2018, President Jokowi also used batik as a dress code at the event.

And finally, of course, there was "batik diplomacy" at the UN Security Council session in New York. The selection of batik as a dress code was a form of respect from the UN Security Council members to Indonesia as the UN Security Council Presidency for May 2019. At that moment, UN Secretary-General Antonio Guterres even took the time to attend wearing batik.

It is important to note as a conclusion. Observing the dynamic journey of batik development, here it can be concluded: in the world of batik, a phenomenon has emerged—borrowing a term from the sociology treasury—'glocalization,' namely the marriage between 'the global' and 'the local' which then formed a contemporary batik culture as a form of global hybrid culture.

Starting from the function of batik as a symbolic identity at the national or local level, then slowly but surely now batik is starting to be accepted by the world community and formed as part of the global cultural identity.

In contemporary batik culture, between 'the global' and 'the local' each do not dominate each other on one side and or subordinate each other on the other. On the contrary, there is a synergy that enriches each other.

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